- Year: 1982
- Maker/Trim/Model: Sunrader
- Length: 21FT
- Odometer: See Below
- Drivetrain: 4cyl Manual
- State/Region: California
- City/Area: Redding
- Name: Nick A.
- Phone: 321-217-7747
- Email: [email protected]
More Details & Pictures
Potential delivery available
82 Toyota Sunrader
Selling my beloved Sunrader restored to original glory (exterior) and ready for a fresh finish out. Framing (fiberglass and epoxy glued) side ribs/ ceiling complete – ready for your design.
– 2 brand new front tires.
– 4 tires in the rear like new with less than 2k miles on them. (duel rear axle [has 6 lug, you want the 6, not the failure prone 5 lug design] )
– Recently had rear air bag suspension system checked (firestone ride rite) and left side was repaired. (Airbags allow your to adjust load as needed)
– Recently added tow hitch on rear for storage platform or bike rack.
– New exterior paint (complete body, trim, wheels, window frames)
– windows removed, painted frames, resealed and double sealed on install to the body
– New rear bumper
– New windshield wipers
– Roof sealed with high quality silicone paint 2019. Looking sharp and ready for the winter rains.
Toyota Sunraders are one of the most unique and light weight 21’ RVs around, a beast of a little rig! Have extra parts on board (plugs, wires, cap, belts etc). I am the 4th owner, (3rd owner a good friend who didn’t drive it much) only mechanical issue I’ve had was the slave cyl on the clutch. Easy fix. That is one of the great thing about the Toyota 22R – so easy to work on. Cruise control works. It is in great operational shape. Recently did some exhaust work. Passed CA Smog Aug 2016 and Aug 2019 with no problems (new fuel cap 2019) and will be due again Aug 2021.
108k the odometer gummed up on me 2018. My guess is odometer is missing less than a few thousand miles, probably less than 2k. This model is a single speedometer and odometer cable, speedometer works. Found the cluster and ordered it off of eBay but the warehouse said they couldn’t find it in their warehouse and canceled the order on me. I think you can get them new for ~$100, quick simple fix. This is the only known mechanical issue. The gears in the odometer on this model are known to fail. Easy replacement. From what I understand there was a rebuilt put in 40k ago by original owner. (I have a binder/ bag of the original paperwork, appliance manuals etc with the original owners meticulous records). It drives/handles great. I’ve taken it to a few events but had a work related injury 2018, broke my arm + head injury. Took me out of the game for a couple years. Took it to 3 events in 2016, 2 events in 2017, 1 event in 2019.
A little bit about the restore:
Quality building materials: This restore was done with care and prudence with longevity in mind. One of the desires of the Sunrader is the complete fiberglass shell – it is the only Toyota RV that I am aware of with this desirable distinction. Light, durable, and water tight, no seams to worry about water penetration. I’ve linked the building products below, you get what you pay for, silicone works great, until it doesn’t. To me, it is worth spending more money up front to get a longer run out of your work.
Product Reference Links:
• Epoxy: https://www.westsystem.com/
• Chem Link: https://chemlink.com/
• Gaco Roof Silicon Paint and Roof Tape: https://gaco.com/product-details/gacoroof-100-silicone-roof-coating/
• Body Paint: http://www.pettitpaint.com/products/topside-paint-finishes/single-part-polyurethane/ez-poxy-easypoxy/
– Primed and painted with Pettit marine grade epoxy paint. High quality paint with a semi gloss finish. White. (fiberglass and bondo to shore up all original mechanical body holes)
– Aluminum middle body trim: removed trim piece and all old hardware, a bit of a design flaw in the Sunrader’s, this has often been a source of undiscovered water seepage. After removing old hardware, sealed all holes with epoxy. Reinstalled with stainless steel screws (added white Chem Link to each new hole) and sealed back from the inside. Replaced vinyl trim insert with black.
– Outboard Storage: Removed outboard storage doors and replaced with two new lock and key doors (1) 12”x24” (1) 12” x 36”. Sealed with butyl tape and covered butyl tape with white Chem Link for aesthetics. Left original aluminum box by the coach door (originally used for two (2) on-board propane tanks) painted frame black and reinstalled with butyl tape and used black Chem link on the edge of the body/ box frame for aesthetics and double seal. ~ 18” x 24”.
– Windows: Removed & cleaned windows, cleaned & painted frames, had the windows reinstalled to the frames by a professional glass shop (my hands were too beat up to do it myself and I was short on time) reinstalled framed windows to the body with butyl tape, trimmed away extra butyl tape and again double sealed with black Chem link for aesthetic purposes. Had the weep hole covers 3D printed with a polymer plastic, painted black (with a plastic adhesion bond first) to preserve the plastic from the UV rays. (window design screws 5/8” screws to an insert aluminum frame to the inside of the window, used shim pieces to take space of sheathing – when you are ready to sheath simply remove screws, shims and sheath, reinstall etc.)
– New hood: Previous owner had walked on it and it was worse for ware.
– Sunrader Bubble “mom’s attic” windows: Reinstalled cab over windows with a new lock gasket, sealed exterior edge with black Chem link just to be sure.
– Coach to Cab Gasket: This is no longer available; from most online forums you will read that people replace it with some sort of gasket and rubber cement or sealer. Used a white gasket and white Chem Link to seal coach to Cab Gasket.
– Trim @ door/ wheel wells: this is also no longer available, rather than cob something together it was in decent shape, painted black and sealed with black Chem link.
– Roof: Roof was painted with Gaco Silicone Roof Paint in 2019. Great product, with a long life span. Given the nature of RVs and overhead branches etc, if I kept it, this is something I would repaint every few years for good maintenance but probably not necessary. I used high quality butyl tape around the ceiling vents (standard ~14” x 14” x 2)
– if you ever need maintenance or removal, simply cut away (through the silicon painted butyl tape to remove the screws). Given that I reframed the interior ceiling, I had to remove the old screws I put in a few years ago, replaced with t-25, re-butyl (same high quality 2” cloth butyl) and painted with Gaco Liquid roof tape. **Note: The framing has restored the slope of the roof of the main coach and mom’s attic to its original contour. For those who are familiar with Sunraders, this is a huge win. All original mechanical vents were eliminated/ sealed in 2018/19, before you sheath it you can easily install whatever you wish.
– Marker lights: Removed, epoxy on all old holes, re-drilled smaller pilot holes for screws and wires and Chem Link sealed on installation. (Wanted to really make sure it was water tight, so went the extra step) Replaced 2 of the amber marker lights on the fiberglass body that had cracked covers I couldn’t find replacements for (they are all LED) and installed two new marker lights on cab body (L/R fender lights).
Late 2017 I gutted the Sunrader and framed// insulated/ sheathed but broke my arm in early 2018 and was not able to completely water seal the unit (Mostly window seepage and original outboard door seepage). Decided to go at it again, this time using epoxy as the bonding agent and taking the time to have a finished product that has the potential to last another 20+ years.
• Ceiling: reframed with jigged out on contour ¾” ply-wood screwed and glued (epoxy) ceiling ribs that are mostly 3 layers 2& ¼” wide with a could double layers at 1& ½” wide. Jacked and epoxy’ed ribs into place. Back filled any epoxy that missed, then fiberglass cloth epoxy’ed for extra rigidity.
• Ceiling Insulation: added 1” foam board insulation with aluminum tape.
• Cab over Ceiling: same process as ceiling of main body but used ½” glued (epoxy) screwed ply @ 2 inches wide for a total depth of 1”. Seated great, back to original contour (no sagging) and 1” insulation. If you wanted to do a solar panel mount this would be a great place for it, just add some more blocking for through bolts, I would add it next to/ epoxy to the ribs at position needed for your solar panels.
• Wall/ window framing: ½” plywood 2” wide framing all around. Epoxy glued into position with spreader bars, back filled any epoxy that missed, added epoxy bead line with syringe to edge (plywood edge to fiberglass interior body) and then as a 4th and 5th step, fiber glassed in with an additional epoxy layer after the cloth process had set. I took extra care to make sure the edge of the window frames were layered with an epoxy coating. There is zero concern that the windows will leak (butyl sealed and double sealed edge of window frame to body with Chem Link) but in 20 years, should there be a failure and water begins to seep it will not be able to rot the wood framing because of the epoxy layer on all edges/ faces.
• Bed frame: designed with bumble bee totes in mind for efficient storage (standard black and yellow 27 gallon totes at Home Depot, Lowes, Target etc.) ~53 inches wide for a full (almost queen) width. I have the original dinette pole mount hardware components if you wanted to create a wrap around bench seat/ bed conversion. For just myself, I always found the dinette bench seat wasn’t needed. Current frame is easy to pop out (t-25 & t-20 screws) to adapt to your needs.
• Side body interior design: Where the top and bottom fiberglass molds meet, there is a bit of a bump out. The original design had wrap around counter / cabinet space and nothing on the bottom half was insulated. Easy enough to 1” foam board insulate the bottom half of the design with no sheathing. I ran 2 plywood strips above/ below the bump out on the first section of the cabin, intended to ½” plywood (~8” x 4’) to the strips and then frame anything desirable to that ply vertical shelf (benches/ cabinets etc.) Ribs on driver side mid cabin end at 36” (floor up) to add 36” high counter/ lower cabinets (Sink/ Stove etc.).
• Sheathing: I did not sheath, leaving the opportunity for buyer to add anything they desire in their design (electrical layout, plumbing layout, exterior accessories (outdoor shower box etc.) When you are ready to sheath go for 1/4 “ luan plywood or masonite sheeting etc. (depends on your desired finish but I would go with Luan as its lighter and easy to work with and I prefer the wood grain finish). I saved the old window cut outs so you can use them for an approximate pattern, the new / current framing design calls for a more efficient use of sheet material which I can explain to you.
• Insulation: As mentioned above (pun intended) ceiling has been insulated with 1” foam board. I have some insulate material (Think high quality/ R-value bubble wrap or windshield sun block insert that I can part with which would be perfect for the wall insulation.
• Original Electrical system: I have the original electrical system boxed up. Tested it on the bench in garage in September 2020, still works fine.
• Water: original black water tank still hung in position. I dropped the gray water tank and planned to add a 15 gallon fresh water tank where the gray water was (original fresh water tank was interior under bench dinette seating) – have both old gray water tank, new never used 15 gallon fresh water tank (with mounting hardware) for sale with unit. Also willing to part with original city water hook up, new gravity feed water inlet, water tubing and new never used pump. I had planned to use the original black water tank (17 us gallons I think) as a gray water tank, but you could easily go back to the original black water/ gray water system. (it is all there). To me, a compost unit makes way more sense for onboard sewage solutions. Have a new outboard exterior shower box that I will also throw in with sale of the unit.
• Floor: epoxy sealed any previous screw holes etc. Left the gray water drain hole, sewer hole to black water and old bathroom sink drain hole (I’d convert that to the new kitchen sink drain hole) open (Aluminum taped closed) incase purchaser wants to reuse any of those existing holes.
• Cab Floor: used some of the Gaco Silicone paint (gray) for the cab floor, it was discolored from all the old glue etc., figured this would be a good option to help keep the cab clean (and easy to clean). Have been looking for some new floor mats but have not yet found anything suitable for driver/ passenger floorboard.
I’m sure there are more details, and more improvements that I have done that I am forgetting. Mid-way through decided to hold off on the finish out (the fun part!) for next buyer and sell it (but did all the work with longevity and quality in mind). Have several other projects I’m in the middle of and downsizing my rv rig to an 18 footer. Absolutely love the Sunrader model but need to clean house a little and reduce my fleet. Looking to find someone who understands the value of Sunraders and understands that this is a long term vehicle, the 22R 4-cyl is tough as nails, but this is the type of rig you drop a new engine in when you need to and keep on cruising. Really went all out to make this right and tight, (hence the 3D printing of the weep hole covers!) see listed building materials above. I have a few other appliances and components I’ve not decided I’m ready to part with (new in the box) or use for other projects. [Ask me
About them] Including a box of goodies of random things (levels I never reinstalled, extra roof vent handles, extra marker lights etc. )
She is an absolute gem. I do not expect this listing to last long as Sunraders are getting harder to come by and all the hard work to restore this cult classic is complete . Now its time for the creative fun part and finish it out how you want.
Email only, serious buyers only. Email me questions and desired call back date/ time and number. Priority given as responses roll in.
Posted photos of interior mid build/ throughout the build. Looking slick new and ready for adventures beyond.
Currently near Platina, CA, in Redding next week. Will move to Santa Rosa, CA end of next week or the following week.
Last Updated on November 18, 2020 by RVAds